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Author
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Topic: Sharpies, other signing tools
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OWL Member Posts: 21 From: United Kingdom Registered: Aug 2007
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posted October 23, 2007 03:03 AM
quote: Originally posted by Novaspace: We have two Destiny photos in the shop now from 1999.
Is the fading of the ink a chemical reaction rather than a sunlight problem?IP: Logged |
Rob Sumowski Member Posts: 433 From: Macon, Georgia Registered: Feb 2000
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posted October 24, 2007 07:48 PM
Hi Fellas:The unscientific conclusion I take from Kim's post is that silver and gold paint pens tend to fade infinitely less than any color of Sharpie. Our own informal cS studies have shown that Sharpies of all colors do indeed fade, though at different rates. My own observations about paint pen vs. Sharpie signatures have been the same as Kim's. I use paint pens whenever possible and I avoid Sharpies. I must admit, though, that I have wondered about the following question: Do we have any idea how long the paint from paint pens will adhere to photos? We know that in some cases paint has come off onto plastic sleeves. It seems to me that paint applied to a photo's surface is a coating, unlike ink applied to a porous surface such as paper where the ink seems to soak into the paper's fiber. I'd love to see how the adherence of each (Sharpie and paint pen) to photo paper works on a molecular level. Have we any chemists who could offer some perspective on this? I also wonder if humidity has any affect on the length of time that a paint pen applied signature will retain its adherence. So I guess as long as the paint from paint pen stays adhered to the photos, my collection will be in good shape. I'd be interested to hear any additional perspectives on this. Rob IP: Logged |
leslie Member Posts: 145 From: Surrey, England Registered: Aug 2005
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posted October 26, 2007 03:44 AM
My experience is that, as Al Bean always says, leave it four minutes to dry after signing before anything touches the signature, particularly gold or silver pen.I have tried various methods of safe storage and decided that placing acid free tissue between each picture,checking every couple of weeks,and handle all prints with a pair of "dust gloves" is the best you can do! I always hear that these should be exhibited but those that I do display are in a room where the curtains are drawn during daylight. The bulk of my collection is in folders that stand upright (therefore no weight pressing down). Direct contact with plastic or card is to be avoided. I agree with Rob when he says always try to take your own paint pens if using silver or gold as there's nothing worse than a nice picture being ruined when one of the "guys" says, "OK, lets try this pen!" I might add that my wife thinks I am insane and wishes I was as conscientious about the house maintenance as I am about my collection! Hmm... that's a no brainer! ------------------ Leslie Cantwell IP: Logged |
MCroft04 Member Posts: 566 From: Smithfield, Me, USA Registered: Mar 2005
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posted October 28, 2007 06:02 PM
OK, I'm losing sleep over this issue. Here's what I think I've read. If I frame my autographed photo's they're subjected to light (and the signatures are in contact with the glass-not sure if this is a potential problem). Or store them in plastic non acidic sleeves, but the ink might stick to the sleeves. I also should not lay them flat; keep them vertical. So what to do? I've had my M-G-A autographed photo's framed and displayed on my study wall for 3-4 years now, with no apparent fading (granted there is not a lot of natural light in my study). But because I was worried about potential fading, I recently started making copies to frame and storing the originals in plastic non acidic sleeves. Seems there is no perfect solution, at least without spending big dollars. IP: Logged |
wiltonw New Member Posts: 1 From: Belmont, CA USA Registered: Dec 2007
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posted December 06, 2007 06:49 PM
In past experience with dye sublimation printers, I learned that vinyl sleeves are antagonistic to a number of things. Color photos can fade and photocopies can stick to vinyl page protectors!!! Those made from polyethylene are safe. That might explain the silver ink sticking on sleeves, as mentioned earlier.IP: Logged |
mjanovec Member Posts: 2024 From: Midwest, USA Registered: Jul 2005
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posted December 06, 2007 08:23 PM
I agree...cheap vinyl sleeves are the worst. They will lift ink off of nearly anything. A well-dried metallic ink signature should not stick to more stable plastics, like mylar.IP: Logged |
bruce Member Posts: 658 From: Fort Mill, SC, USA Registered: Aug 2000
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posted December 07, 2007 07:47 AM
quote: Originally posted by MCroft04: But because I was worried about potential fading, I recently started making copies to frame and storing the originals in plastic non acidic sleeves.
I also did this many years ago, because, like so many of us, I want to experience the joy of seeing the photos on the wall everyday and not just when I have the opportunity to pull out the ringed bidders. One thing you might want to do is to add a small sticker on the back of each one of the copies that says something like "This photograph is a COPY of the original image contained in my ringed binder # ... The purpose of the copy is to protect the condition of the original signature(s) and the item." I think this helps cover a few bases down the road so there's no confusion over the images later. Just my two cents. Bruce
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DSeuss5490 Member Posts: 94 From: Columbus, Ohio USA Registered: Jan 2003
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posted December 07, 2007 08:51 PM
Most of the signed pictures I have bought from Novaspace signings were done in a metallic ink -- and are still A-OK. A past Bruce McCandless signing -- I think it was 2-3 years ago maybe -- I had three 11x14 photos signed and inscribed in thin black ink. None were displayed in sunlight and, unfortunately, all of the black ink is virtually gone or illegible at this point on all of the photos. Certainly disappointing, but a lesson learned as well. IP: Logged |
MarylandSpace Member Posts: 464 From: Registered: Aug 2002
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posted January 06, 2008 01:34 PM
Just a heads up, fellow collectors.Staples has some Sharpies on sale this week, 5 for $1. Garry IP: Logged |
ejectr Member Posts: 897 From: Brimfield, MA Registered: Mar 2002
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posted January 06, 2008 02:35 PM
That's an awful lot of autographs...  IP: Logged |
eilisk Member Posts: 96 From: London Registered: Oct 2004
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posted January 08, 2008 08:15 AM
As someone who's not owned signing pens, and is now thinking about getting some, I've read this thread with interest.I was going to get a blue, black, silver and gold sharpie, but I was looking on cultpens.com website and I came across this pen - has anyone seen it before and can comment? What interested me was smudge and light proof aspects, but I hesitate as I'm just not sure how suitable it would be on photographic material, paper and the likes. Here is the blurb from the website: quote: The edding 8404 Aerospace marker contains low-odour water-based pigment ink which is highly smudge-proof, water-resistant and lightproof The low-corrosion formulation, resistant to many solvents and paints led to this pen being approved for aerospace use to ABP 9-3323 Class A. Bullet tip writes approx 0.75mm line. Black ink only.
All the best EilisIP: Logged |
Janncubsfan New Member Posts: 6 From: Nortwest Indiana Registered: Jan 2008
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posted January 10, 2008 12:14 AM
Not an expert by any means, but we have a picture signed in gold by Gary Hudson it's about 15 years old. Anyway, it still looks perfect, but has remained in tube for entire time. We plan to frame it soon and I'll keep it well away from direct sunlight. Great thread and Great advice, Thanks All!IP: Logged |
Rob Joyner Member Posts: 790 From: GA, USA Registered: Jan 2004
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posted April 27, 2008 11:42 AM
A little help needed here!I have an Earthrise (ImpactPhotoGraphics) poster purchased at KSC. The black sky area is already signed by a few in silver, but I can't recall what pens were used. Any chance anyone remember what silver pens were used last year at KSC by Cunningham, Schweickart, Gordon, Lovell and Worden? Some are thinner in width than others and appear to be from different kinds of pens, Lovell's being the thinnest (paint?) and Gordon's being the widest (Sharpie?). If a final verdict is in regarding silver ink I need a few of you pen gurus to list what you think is the best to use and how long it takes to dry. (quick drying is preferred). Thanks! Rob IP: Logged |
capoetc Member Posts: 598 From: Camden DE (USA) Registered: Aug 2005
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posted April 27, 2008 12:13 PM
quote: Originally posted by Rob Joyner: Any chance anyone remember what silver pens were used last year at KSC by Cunningham, Schweickart, Gordon, Lovell and Worden?
Seems to me they all had several different pens. I remember Dick Gordon was signing a lot of things in gold paint pen, if that helps.------------------ John Capobianco Camden DE IP: Logged |
Rob Sumowski Member Posts: 433 From: Macon, Georgia Registered: Feb 2000
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posted April 27, 2008 02:48 PM
Hi Rob:John is right. There were many variations in widths and brands used at KSC. I know some astronauts like Ed Mitchell brought their own markers from home. Lovell did use mostly thin (Ultra-fine) silver paint on the items he signed for me and others that I saw cross his table. The thicker (Fine) signatures can be done with either sharpie or paint. In my experience, the difference is that silver Sharpie tends to dry to a silver-gray with a flat finish while silver paint tends to dry metallic silver with a bit of luster. My preference is silver paint pen. I'd highly recommend the model Sakura Pen-Touch silver in either Ultra fine (for a thin line) or Fine point (for a medium width line). It's the only pen I use when given an option. Again, the Ultra-fine size will give you the thin shiny line (a la what I received from Lovell at KSC) and the Fine size will give you a wider paint line with the width comparable to that of the silver Sharpie. I have found the Sakura Pen-Touch silver pens at Michael's Arts and Crafts stores or online anywhere. Regardless, always prep and prime the pen before using. Shake it well and test it until you get a good clean line before using. This should give you great results. Good luck, Rob IP: Logged |
Rob Joyner Member Posts: 790 From: GA, USA Registered: Jan 2004
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posted April 27, 2008 08:25 PM
Thanks guys!Rob, out of the autographs I mentioned, the Lovell looks the best - thin & crisp. If this was done with the Sakura, how long will it take to dry before I can roll the poster up? I've heard to wait an hour before placing a photo in a plastic sleeve, but would it take this long for the poster to dry as well? At the KSC show I made sure not to roll it for over an hour, just to be safe, but under certain circumstances, I might not have an hour to do so. Also, I read in a related thread that the Uni-Ball Gel pen tends to dry quickly, but I'm not familiar with the pen or how it looks on paper. Any extra help would be appreciated! IP: Logged |
Rob Sumowski Member Posts: 433 From: Macon, Georgia Registered: Feb 2000
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posted April 27, 2008 09:04 PM
Hi Rob:I usually wait a day or so before putting any silver paint pen-signed photo in a sleeve; however it should be dry to the touch within five minutes (not that you'd want to touch it, of course). Several years ago, I did try the Uni-Ball gel pen, found the ink satisfactory, however on some surfaces the metal ball put an indentation line right through the center of the signature line, making it look like two dual sigs. In this case I had sent a 16 x 20 photo to Walt with a request for a long inscription. Walt did the inscription well, but my pen handicapped his effort and it turned out looking pretty rough. Ever since I have used the Sakura. They're expensive and I buy a lot of them (and most astronauts do not return them), but it seems to me to be a real quality pen. Rob
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mikeh Member Posts: 77 From: Registered: Feb 2008
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posted May 07, 2008 08:20 PM
What ball-point would you recommend? Are certain brands/models longer lasting that others? I want to have Collins sign something at Nova to mate with a ball-point Armstrong signature. Thanks,IP: Logged |
Rob Sumowski Member Posts: 433 From: Macon, Georgia Registered: Feb 2000
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posted May 07, 2008 10:43 PM
Good question, Mike. I've noticed that to my eye, most 1960s/1970s ball point signatures have held up pretty well over time- much better than the 1960s/1970s felt tip markers (look at all of those faded blue felt tipped Armstrong WSS lithos).Among the most popular ball-point pens then (as far as I can remember) were the good ol' Bic ball point pens in the clear six- or eight-sided hard plastic shaft that we all used in school. Remember those? These are still available at any Staples or Office Depot. For my taste, I like medium point because it puts more ink on the page in a thicker line than does the fine point. And I'd be sure that there is a good thick piece of paper beneath the area of the item to be signed (with both sitting atop a firm surface). Any other ideas out there for ball point pens? Rob IP: Logged |
capoetc Member Posts: 598 From: Camden DE (USA) Registered: Aug 2005
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posted May 08, 2008 08:28 AM
I sent in my copy of Countdown for the Borman signing, and I asked for it to be signed in Sharpie. I got an e-mail back from Rob at Novaspace strongly suggesting that I use the Pilot-brand V-Ball roller pen -- "because it is much less likely than a Sharpie to bleed through the paper, but gives a dark, opaque, very smooth line, unlike a ballpoint pen that tends to skip".FWIW, I took his advice.  ------------------ John Capobianco Camden DE IP: Logged |
mjanovec Member Posts: 2024 From: Midwest, USA Registered: Jul 2005
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posted May 08, 2008 06:41 PM
quote: Originally posted by capoetc: I got an e-mail back from Rob at Novaspace strongly suggesting that I use the Pilot-brand V-Ball roller pen -- "because it is much less likely than a Sharpie to bleed through the paper, but gives a dark, opaque, very smooth line, unlike a ballpoint pen that tends to skip".
Rob knows his stuff. His attention to detail is second to none. IP: Logged |
albatron Member Posts: 1481 From: Stuart, Florida, USA Registered: Jun 2000
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posted May 08, 2008 09:44 PM
In the pre planning stages for Spacefest, Rob and I discussed that pen. He is correct, it is an excellent choice.Do not discount the ultra fine point sharpie with the plastic tip. It's a sharpie with a ball point style tip. Not to be confused with the really fine point felt tip. Before Rob introduced me to that pen, I always used the plastic tipped sharpie in books, and on covers. Never a smudge, bleed or anything. In a pinch it can be used on photo's and if you want a thin ink, on lithos as well. IP: Logged |
SPACEKID Member Posts: 21 From: UK Registered: Oct 2007
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posted May 29, 2008 09:33 PM
Anyone know what year the first marker type pens were used? Just wondered who may have the earliest marker signed astronaut picture.Steve.
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CPCM Member Posts: 19 From: Spring, Texas, USA Registered: Dec 2007
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posted June 07, 2008 12:18 PM
Metallic pens are great but since they do tend to sit above the image, anything heavy that sits on top of it, some of the ink can come off. IP: Logged |